Perched up on the top floor of the relatively new and brash Heron Tower skyscraper lies a new equally bold introduction to the culinary London scene.
Following the signs at street level on Bishopsgate for Sushisamba you venture upwards in a glass lift at a rapid rate of knots. It certainly is an impressive sight swiftly rising above all the City workers on a beautiful clear day.
On paper this should be a place that would usually fill me with dread – situated in a place where surely only bankers would go; with plush surroundings and a wine list with some eye-watering prices. Pleasingly though, given the quality of the food alone you can easily put aside these instincts and kick-back for a fine experience.
To kick off the proceedings, we opted for the intriguingly titled BBQ-spiced crispy Pig Ears. Arriving in a paper bag sealed with the restaurant emblem they were flavorsome and moreish.
When looking at the menu the whole feel of the food on offer is very well thought through. Head Chef Daniel Doherty mixes ingredients in some interesting ways with options of small tapas like dishes, raw fish, fresh baked breads with some mains thrown in for good measure. We tried to go for a good spread of the selections on offer.
The ‘Foie Gras Breakfast’, with a dash of Nutella was rich and succulent smacking all of it’s flavours full in the face. Mini black puddings, crispy bacon, two generous pieces of Foie Gras and a Quails egg topped off on a crispy piece of bread.
The Ox Cheek Doughnut accompanied by Mango, The Rosemary & Garlic Bread and the Pollack Meatballs were also nothing to be sniffed at. Ox surely had to go with dough; as any self-respecting American using lashings of Maple Syrup on pancakes & Bacon can rightfully attest.
The bread was reassuringly good, and the Lobster sauce with the Pollocks hit all the right notes.
But then to finish off we had to go for the signature dish. Surely when you go to somewhere called the Duck and Waffle its impossible to turn down such a dish that’s actually named that? As with the other plates of food there was much to savour. When it arrives it’s piled high, so you’re a bit uncertain how to tackle the dish… but a few confused looks and a cursory glance to the helpful waitresses and we’re advised the strategy to follow.
The views are great, the food bombastic and the service is attentive. You have good views into the kitchen seeing the chefs at work, and the fact that this is open 24 hours means you can happily while the early hours away sharing a sinful dish or two.
A place I wanted not to like, but regardless the Duck and Waffle pulls it off ticking a fair few boxes in the process.
£45 pp – with wine
Tel: 0203 640 7310
Duck & Waffle, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopgate, London EC2N 4AY